the voice of freshness

Here in Houston the fall I crave, will never come to be. At least in the kitchen I can bring the flavors by cooking heartier, more seasoned dishes. Last night, while eating moussaka with a warming pour of red wine, it didn’t have to be fifty degrees outside with stain glass colored leaves falling. If I closed my eyes, it existed in my mind, all wrapped in a warm luxurious sweater.

The spices used to make this dish are what conjured up my imaginary change of season. Cinnamon, nutmeg and cayenne and tiny drops of sweetness from a handful of currants wafted through the house firing up our appetites.

Don’t be frightened by the combination of ingredients in this Greek casserole. They all work together in perfect harmony that makes you want to sing the praises of autumn. Enjoy!

Moussaka

½ cup roasted red peppers chopped

1 (1 ½ lbs.) eggplant, cut crosswise into ¼ inch thick slices, bake 400 degrees for 20-30 minutes

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 pound ground turkey thigh, lean beef or lamb

1 ½ cups onion, chopped

1 large garlic clove, finely chopped

1, 32 oz. can diced tomatoes, drained

½ cup chicken stock, low-sodium

1/3 cup dry red wine

½ cup currants

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon nutmeg

1, 3” cinnamon stick

Mashed Potato Topping

Yukon gold potatoes, 5, medium, chopped

½ cup 2% milk, more for desired consistency

½ tablespoon unsalted butter

¼ teaspoon kosher salt, more to taste

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, more to taste

1 teaspoon dried oregano

¼ - ½ cup of feta or goat cheese

Preheat oven 400 degrees. Roast eggplant for 20-30 minutes until caramelized. Cut roasted red bell pepper and combine with eggplant when finished, put aside until ready to assemble dish.

Heat olive oil in a large cast iron skillet, add ground meat, brown & crumble, then add onion for 5-10 minutes, until golden. Then add garlic and cook 1 minute and then add the tomatoes through the cinnamon stick, and stir. Bring to a simmer and let cook for 30 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated.

While the meat mixture is cooking, bring a pot of water to boil and add chopped potatoes. Cook potatoes until fork tender. Drain and put in a mixing bowl. Mix on medium speed while combining milk though cheese. Taste frequently to ensure proper seasoning.

Spray a 9”x13” baking dish with cooking spray. Place eggplant mixture on the bottom. Top with meat mixture and cover with mashed potatoes. Sprinkle extra cheese on top if you’d like. Bake in oven at 400 degrees until warmed through and the potato topping turns a golden brown.

Remove from oven, serve with a tossed salad and don’t forget a healthy pour of your favorite red wine.

Need and want are two very different words that are too easily interchanged in today’s vocabulary. Eleven days after hurricane Ike, and still without electricity, I have a better grasp on want and need. I do not necessarily need air conditioning, TV and a blow dryer but I want it. I don’t even need my stove/oven (unfortunately, electric) or my fridge but I want it. We’ve worked around the cooking issue by using our gas grill and/or camp stove. Also, worked around refrigeration with ice and two coolers, all of this takes some extra planning and time but it all comes together.

Last Friday evening we were graciously loaned a generator. Having a fridge and freezer up and running is worth the cost in gas to fuel the source. Having a window AC unit cool one small room in our home in Houston is priceless. The night the generator arrived was the sixth evening our neighbors gathered on our driveway for pot luck dinner. It started off with about eight of us. As the week grew in length, so did our table to accommodate the number of neighbors who showed up.

Each evening at 6:30 there was a flurry of people and dishes of brisket, rice, pasta, lentils, salad, and plenty of beer, wine, soda, homemade Derby pies (she has a gas oven) – we did not want for anything. There was no inane TV blaring, no microwave to reheat leftovers. There was just a makeshift family coming together to enjoy each other’s company.

Food is a basic we all need. Coming together to share our experiences and not feel so isolated is a want we all need to have in our lives. I hope your friends and family fared well if you live in an area affected by Ike. I also hope you all had a chance to find something unexpected and enjoyable.

Recently a friend emailed to ask me what knife I use? Why do I like it, especially at the price? The title of my reply was “the heavenly shun”. The rest of the information was a little like how do I love thee, let me count the ways…

This is funny because “stuff” is not my thing. I don’t care about cars, clothes, shoes and I thought the knives we had were just fine, Wusthof - the good German ones. Then, my husband bought me a Shun for Valentine’s Day 2007. I haven’t used another knife in the block since. It is beautiful to look at folded steel blade and I could not believe how sharp the edge is. It cuts through most produce like it’s going through butter. I love it.

Since I frequently use it, every day, I’ve had it sharpened professionally two, maybe three times. I would never take it upon myself to use the sharpening steel that came with our Wusthof knife block. I would murder that spectacular edge. It is taken to a person who has the right tools for the job. Each time it returns from being freshly sharpened I’m in awe all over again.

If you like Alton Brown’s food science lessons on the Food Network’s Good Eats, then you must watch this video all about the Shun. He sings their praises; as well he should since he is a spokesperson. Can you imagine the perks from that gig?! If you have some time, he explains the difference in the Shun blade verses others. The sharp edge and speed do take a little getting used to. If you cut yourself, it heals quickly because it is one swift and clean cut. I speak from experience.

If you do swoon for the Shun, and you don’t have a knife block or room in it, buy the plastic snap on knife protector so it can live in a drawer safely. We have a block full of Wusthof knives. For me, I’m happy with just one Shun.

I read a lot of recipes each month. My favorite comments in the review section are when people give the recipe the lowest possible rating next to fifty other cooks highest rating. When I click to read why they thought it was so horrible it quickly becomes apparent - substitution. Now, done correctly and in moderation it is fine but when you are subbing tofu for sausage, tomato puree for pumpkin puree and cottage cheese for goat cheese…it is going to suck. No way around it.

So when on a pantry raid desperate to make a recipe you have just found, choose wisely or wait to make it until after your next trip to the grocery store. Why am I on this tangent, oh yeah, black bean vegetarian chili. Which did not suck, as some believe of vegetarian cuisine, and the ingredients are possibly available in your pantry now.

I’ve also come across recipe reviews where people choose a vegetarian recipe and say it was great but they’re not vegetarians so they added bacon and it was terrific. No shit. Bacon makes everything better but you don’t have to be a vegetarian to make vegetarian meals. They can be very convenient and a nice change of pace from staring down at the three sections of protein, carb and veg on your plate.

Top with shredded low-fat cheddar cheese (never said it was vegan), diced avocado and tomato with a lime wedge and some corn tortilla chips for dipping. Enjoy!

Black Bean Chili - 6 to 8 servings

Canola oil, 1 tablespoon

Yellow onion, chopped, 1 cup

Garlic, chopped, 4 cloves

Roasted red bell pepper, jarred, chopped, 1 cup

Green chilies, chopped, 1, 4.5 oz. can

Cumin, ground, 2 teaspoons

Cilantro or oregano or a little of both, dried, 2 teaspoons

Smoked paprika, ground, 2 teaspoons

Chili powder, 3 teaspoons

Vegetable broth (recommend Kitchen Basics), 14.5 ounces

Water, ¼ cup

Black beans, 2, 15 ounce cans, rinsed and drained

Tomatoes, diced, 1, 14.5 ounce can

Barley, 2/3 cup

Salt and pepper to taste

Over medium high heat bring medium sized pot to temperature. Add the canola oil followed by the onion. Sautee for 5 minutes or until the onion turns golden. Add the garlic, roasted red pepper and green chilies, cook for one minute. Next, add the spices and cook for 30 seconds. Finally, put in the rest of the ingredients, broth though barley.

Bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes or until barley is tender. If the chili is too soupy, remove lid and let simmer for 10 minutes. If it is too thick, add a little more chicken stock.

For original recipe please visit Cooking Light.

The one plant that has survived my black thumb this season - basil. In fact, it looks like a small shrub at this point in the season. Last week it finally dawned on me that maybe I should start making pesto. Plus, friends were coming over and brought the makings for grilled cedar plank salmon. I was in need of a fast, light delicious side and you can’t beat pasta for speed, versatility and likeability.

I rummaged through the vegetable drawer seeing what else I could add. Shocker, more zucchini. Since the grill was already fired up, I sliced two large zucchini in half lengthwise, rubbed them down with olive oil, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Then the sections were placed on the grill to cook briefly, removed, cooled and sliced.

The pesto took all of five minutes to make, was tossed with one pound of cooked whole wheat penne pasta, topped with grilled zucchini and given a heavy dusting with grated Parmesan cheese. That’s it. Enjoy!

Pesto

basil leaves, 2 cups tightly packed

garlic cloves, 2-4, peeled (more or less to taste)

pine nuts or walnuts, toasted, 1/4 cup

parmesan cheese, grated 1/2 cup

olive oil, 6 tablespoons

lemon, freshly squeezed, 1 teaspoon (more or less to taste)

salt and pepper to taste

water (optional)

On the stove top place pine nuts or walnuts in a small skillet over medium high heat. Toast for up to ten minutes, shaking the nuts in the pan frequently. When the nuts start to turn dark golden color, remove from heat and let cool.

Once nuts have cooled, place all of the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until combined. If the pesto is too thick add a teaspoon of water at a time to achieve desired consistency.

Each July they arrive, jeweled and dazzeling calling to me when I enter the produce section. I’m drawn to them, I buy them, I consume mass quanties of them. These cherries hail from the Pacific Northwest. If you are ever fortunate enough to be in the region in July - run don’t walk to the closest farmer’s market.

A couple of years ago, my husband surprised me with a trip to Portland, OR for a weekend to celebrate my birthday and visit friends. That was the best gift but literally the cherry on top was arriving at the Portland Farmers Market. I have never seen a market this large. It was incredible. My head was going back and forth like I was watching a tennis match. I could not decide where to start until I saw them across the way. At a stand to my left there was a waterfall of cherries falling from a crate. Not only the sweet red Bing Cherries but the elusive Rainer Cherry. Their season is shorter than the Bing, which makes the golden colored sweet creamy fruit such a treat.

Though no cherry is local to Houston, they are in season the U.S. Like all other fruits and vegetables, they taste best when eaten in their natural growing season. One cup is only 90 calories and with it you are getting vitamin C, three grams of fiber, a little vitamin A, calcium and iron. Cherries of any kind are a luxury purchase on my shopping list. They are expensive but to me worth every penny for this summer gem.

Last week when picking up our CSA share, this vegetable lead me to this internal and external dialogue with those around me and myself: (external) “Oh, cool. These are really pretty. What are they?” When the answer was given: (internal) “Ah, yes, purple long bean. Again, what?” As soon as I was home I was online searching for some answers.

These yard long beans make for a fashionably colored plate. Commonly found in India and China but thanks to Home Sweet Farm, CSA members in south Texas get a look and taste of a vegetable I’m sure most have not experienced. I wasn’t sure how to cook them. On tasting the bean in raw form, it reminded me of a mild cabbage. Since we only had a small amount, I just sautéed them with a little garlic and olive oil.

This week I’m looking forward to more and think I will make a curry dish that incorporates this strange bean. If you’re interested in growing some yourself, I found the seeds at Kitazawa Seed Company. For now, I’ll stick to the CSA weekly surprise.

Three things I crave at this time of summer: tomatoes, watermelon and corn on the cob. I’ve had plenty of tomatoes and watermelon in the last month and last week I finally found the corn. There was a huge display of corn on the cob at Whole Foods. It is from Georgia, so no points for me on keeping it local but at least it is in this continent.

Anyway, after I’ve eaten two ears in one sitting I’ve had my fix. Since the price was better buying more ears than less…I had several ears leftover, five to be exact. Soups and stews are my favorite to cook and eat, so I decide on corn chowder. Searching through different recipes, figuring out the flavors I wanted and a way to lower the fat content still achieving the chowder’s creamy consistency without all the butter, I decided on the following. It is a balance of sweet from the corn, heat from jalapenos and smokiness from turkey bacon and seasonings. I was very happy with the results, I hope you are too. Enjoy!

Bacon-Corn Chowder: serves 8, large bowls, freezes well

Olive oil, 1/8-1/4 cup

black pepper turkey bacon, 6 slices, cooked and crumbled

smoked paprika, ½ teaspoon

yellow onion, chopped, 1 cup

garlic, 3 large cloves, minced

jalapeno, ½ large, more to taste

fresh corn, 5 to 6 ears, halved then cut on the vertical to remove kernels from the cob

chicken broth, low-sodium, 32 oz.

potato, red, russet or baking, chopped, 1 ½ cups

sour cream, low-fat, ¼ - ½ cup

milk, 2% or whole, ½ cup

chipotle pepper powder, ½ teaspoon

cilantro, fresh, chopped 2 tablespoons, or dried, 1 tablespoon

lime juice, fresh, ½ to 1 whole lime, to taste

salt and pepper to taste

cheddar cheese, low-fat, shredded

Add olive oil to large skillet, preferably cast iron, over med-high heat. Add a tablespoon of the olive oil followed by the bacon, cook until crisp. Remove bacon from pan, cool, then crumble and set aside. In the same pan, add the rest of the olive oil, then the smoked paprika to pan and stir, cook 30 seconds. Add onion, garlic, and jalapeno. Sautee for 5 minutes. Add corn, sauté for 5 minutes. Add chicken broth, potatoes, chipotle powder, cilantro, all but 1/4 cup of bacon crumbles, salt and pepper. Simmer 20 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. Stir in whole milk and sour cream. Taste and adjust seasoning accordingly. If done, remove from heat and stir in lime. Top each serving with the rest of the crumbled bacon and shredded low-fat cheddar cheese.

Yesterday, I volunteered at Rodriguez Elementary School for the summer program in the Three Sisters Kitchen for Recipe for Success. The kids had spent the past week preparing and cooking for their Green Corn Festival. They had made, with the guidance and supervision of Chef Carolyn of course, wonderful dishes such as zucchini bread, bean casserole and even baked their own tortilla chips. To wash down all the goodies they served a fizzy mango sipper to their friends, family and themselves.

Fresh mangos were pureed and carbonated water was added for a refreshing treat on yet another hot Houston summer day. There were also some lime, lemon and orange slices added to dress it up for the party. Perfect. When I came home with a mango in hand, I wanted more.

I peeled the ripe mango and put it in the blender. I added some more sass by picking mint from our garden and took some ginger root the pantry and blended it all together. I spooned some into a fancy glass and poured on some fizzy water, which in our house is Canada Dry Lemon Lime Sparkling Seltzer Water . No sugar, gives the feel of soda on the tongue and is absoultely thirst quenching on its own but the added fruit puree is a wonderful treat.

So, grab some fruit, herbs, spices…whatever you like and make a drink for all this holiday weekend. And make it pretty, like big boat drinks. Go all out, I’m sure your kids will love it - you too. Very grown up you know. Speaking of grown-ups, I’m sure a little bit of tequila or rum, depending on the flavors, would be oh so nice. Enjoy!

Seems that the hit or miss rain we’ve had in south Texas the past few months as missed Home Sweet Farm more than hit. So, most likely no eggplant from our CSA share this season but there is still the farmer’s market. Still, I wanted eggplant parmesan and if I didn’t have any of the shiny purple summer beauty than what could I use? Staring at the bounty we did get last week I thought squash might do the trick…and it did.

Using pattypan squash, pale green flying saucer shape, and eight ball squash, looks like a round zucchini, it turned out to be a tasty dish. Typically, when I first try something new I don’t stray too far from the recipe. This time I just went for it since I knew what I wanted and was fairly sure I could do it on my own.

There was an added bonus. We also picked-up five pounds of tomatoes last week, our half share! All five pounds went into boiling water, peeled, and placed on the stove top to cook down. Once they were ready I added some chopped onion, garlic, oregano, basil and tomato paste. While it continued to simmer, I occasionally tasted and added salt, pepper and a little sugar, to lessen the acidity, to taste. If you are not in the mood to make homemade sauce, just pick-up your favorite bottled marinara. Make sure it is not loaded with fat and sugar…you’re going for fresh here.

This does require some steps but doesn’t take too long. Serve with whole wheat pasta, I choose penne, and enjoy!

Squash Parmesan

2 pattypan squash or 2 eight ball squash or 1 medium eggplant, sliced in 1/2 - 1 inch thick rounds

eggs, 2-3, lightly scrambled

whole wheat bread crumbs, 1 1/2 - 2 cups depending on amount of squash or eggplant

basil, fresh, chopped, 1 tablespoon

oregano, fresh, chopped, 1 tablespoon

thyme, fresh, chopped, 1 tablespoon

salt, 1/4 teaspoon or more to taste

pepper, freshly ground, 1/2 teaspoon or more to taste

parmesan cheese, grated, 1/4 cup

mozzarella cheese, part-skim, 1 - 2 cups shredded, again depending on amount of squash

whole wheat pasta, 1/2 pound cooked - reserve 1/2 cup cooking liquid for marinara, fresh or bottled

Slice squash or eggplant, set aside. On a cookie sheet combine bread crumbs through pramesan cheese. Move crumb mixture to one side of the sheet. In a medium sized bowl, lightly scramble eggs. Now set up an assembly line: squash, eggs, breadcrumb mixture on one side and cleared sheet space on the other. Dip and flip each slice of squash in the eggs, place in bread crumb mixture and coat both sides and place on cleared area of sheet pan. Repeat until all the slices are complete and spread out across the cookie sheet.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat and coat with cooking spray and added one tablespoon of canola oil, add as many slices to the pan without overcrowding. In 2-3 minutes, flip and brown other side. Repeat with the rest of the slices. Once complete, put all the slices back on the cookie sheet. Take two pieces of squash that are of equal size or larger slice on the bottom. Top bottom slice with mozzarella and put second slice on top, then sprinkle the top with cheese. Repeat until you have made stacks with all the slices.

Pop in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until cheese is melted and bubbling. Remove and serve with pasta and marinara sauce.